Philadelphia: Vibrant and Free

I’m embarrassed to admit it. Before I traveled to Philadelphia, I had no idea how absolutely wonderful a place it is to explore. I had an image of a city with a few historical sites, a mediocre downtown with crumbling, old buildings and greasy spoons selling cheesesteak sandwiches. The truth is that I wouldn’t have even visited if it weren’t for the fact that my husband and I had to take our daughter to college at The University of Pennsylvania.

View of Philadelphia from the Museum of Art

View of Philadelphia from the Museum of Art 

 

Wow, was I misinformed. Philly is not only the cradle of America’s freedom; it is a thriving, sophisticated metropolis with so much more to do and see than one visit allows. Yes, there is a great deal of poverty in some areas around here, with some decaying neighborhoods like all large cities, but that is not what this great metropolis is all about.

Historic Philadelphia

Any visitor to Philly should start by exploring the historic sites, run by our National Park System. Independence Hall is the place where our founding fathers created and signed the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution. Free tours are offered at scheduled times. Tickets are required, and you can obtain them from the Independence Visitor’s Center around the block. The tour we took was perhaps the best, most informative historical tour I’ve ever joined. My group was led by Ranger Maria Schall, who shared fascinating details about the creation and the signing of the Declaration of Independence, right in the very room where it all happened. I stood right behind the chair where Jefferson once sat! The Tower of Independence Hall, which once housed the Liberty Bell, is currently being renovated. Participating in the tour gave me insight into our nation’s history and freedom like no history lesson, book or movie could ever provide.

The chair in the back of this room in Independence Hall is the original where George Washington sat

The chair in the back of this room in Independence Hall is the original where George Washington sat 

 

Across the street from Independence Hall is a modern building that houses the Liberty Bell Exhibit. After William Penn gave colonists the freedom to participate in making laws and choosing their own religions, a new bell was ordered in 1751 by the Speaker of the PA Assembly to be displayed in the State House. By 1753 the bell arrived. In 1846, the bell mysteriously cracked, only to be repaired and crack again. No attempt was ever made again to repair it, and the crack is now a symbol of freedom in itself. In addition to viewing the Liberty Bell, the exhibit includes antique items that display the bell and information about world leaders who have visited the bell.

The Liberty Bell

The Liberty Bell 

 

Other historic sites include: Betsy Ross’ House; Edgar Allan Poe’s House; The Christ Church Burial Ground, where many of our leaders were buried including Ben Franklin; Carpenter’s Hall, where the First Continental Congress met; and Declaration House, where Jefferson drafted the Declaration of Independence.
 

 

University Center

Philadelphia is a city of many colleges and universities; there are over 250,000 college students here. At University Center are two of the city’s largest educational facilities - Drexel University (22,000+ students) and The University of Pennsylvania (24,000+ students). Founded in the eighteenth century by Benjamin Franklin, The University of Pennsylvania is today one of America’s foremost universities and a member of the Ivy League. It is best known for its prestigious Wharton School. The campus offers a beautiful mix of historic buildings, modern structures and hilly walkways. Highlights of the campus include: the massive and strikingly beautiful College Hall, designed by Penn alum Charles Addams and used as inspiration for the TV show The Addams Family; Addams Hall, with its iron gates depicting hands; the historic Irvine Auditorium; and Locust Walk, a beautiful tree-lined walkway, which is the heart of the campus.

College Hall, University of Pennsylvania

College Hall, University of Pennsylvania 

 

 

 

 

Center City

Center City is the hub of Philadelphia’s downtown. This is where central business district and thriving neighborhoods meet. It is the third most populated downtown area in the US, after New York and Chicago. The most prominent building in City Center is the monumental City Hall, one of the most exquisite buildings in America and one of the largest masonry buildings in the world.

Philadelphia - City Hall

Philadelphia - City Hall 

 

My favorite part of downtown is Rittenhouse Square, with its shady park in the center. It’s the perfect place to sit on a bench to observe people and their dogs. This area offers some of the best shopping and dining in the city as well. The Anthropologie Store at 1801 Walnut Street is housed in a most spectacular, old 4-storey mansion. There are several cultural sites here as well including the Philadelphia Art Alliance and the Curtis Institute of Music, which has the lowest acceptance rate of any college in the US.

A great place to have lunch and shop is at the Reading Terminal Marketplace on North 12th Street. The sheer numbers of vendor selling great eats is overwhelming! You can buy delicious Amish pastries, prepared foods, kitchen items, herbs or shop to make your own scrumptious meals.

Reading Terminal Market

Reading Terminal Market 

 

There are so many historic churches of Philadelphia, it is possible to plan a trip around them. One of the most impressive interiors belongs to the Catholic Basilica of Peter and Paul, built in 1864. You simply must go inside.

 

 

 

 

Museums

There are at least 28 major museums in Philly, and most are equal or superior in excellence to those of New York and Chicago. A visitor could spend weeks just visiting them. The Philadelphia Museum of Art at 26th Street and Ben Franklin Parkway is a must-see. The colossal, Neoclassial structure from 1876 is rather imposing, and the 72 steps that lead up to the entrance, made famous by the movie Rocky, are a major tourist attraction. We happened to be in the city in time to see the Exhibit of Renoir’s Late Works. It was by far the most impressive art exhibit I’ve seen, and I returned with a big, fat book about the artist I purchased in the gift shop. The museum is so large that it is impossible to view it all in one visit. The fine and applied art exhibits from America, Asia, and Europe span over 2,000 years to modern day. 

Philadelphia Museum of Art and the famous Rocky steps

Philadelphia Museum of Art and the famous Rocky steps 

 

Another museum of great importance is the Rodin Museum of Philadelphia on North 22nd Street, housing the largest number of the artist’s sculptures outside of Paris. The exterior of the museum is currently under renovation, but the interior is complete. When approaching the entrance, you will be greeted by The Thinker. Inside are many impressive pieces including the infamous Burghers of Calais.

Rodin - the Thinker

Rodin - the Thinker 

 

Among the long list of other museums are:  The National Museum of American Jewish History; The Academy of Natural Sciences; The Eastern State Penitentiary; The Masonic Temple; The Please Touch Museum; The Upenn Museum of Anthropology and Archaeology and others.

 

 

South Philly

For great food from the best Italian markets in the city, check out historic South Philly, where the original Philly Cheesesteaks were born. (Beware of the touristy, nostalgic cheesesteak restaurants, as the word is that the food isn’t very good. It is better to check with your hotel concierge who can guide you to the best places.) There is a bustling row of markets selling meats, fish and produce as well as pasta, cheeses and other Italian specialties. It is best to visit on Saturday, when the streets are lined with outdoor vendors. Ralph’s Restaurant, the oldest Italian restaurant in the US, is located here at 760 S. 9th Street - as is one of the best markets, DiBruno Brothers at 930 S. 9th Street. They have a larger shop in the Rittenhouse Square area too.

Ralph's Restaurant - an historic Philly landmark

Ralph's Restaurant - an historic Philly landmark 

 

Italian market mural of Commissioner/Mayor Frank Rizzo

Italian market mural of Commissioner/Mayor Frank Rizzo 

 

The sights, sounds and tastes of Philadelphia are far too extensive to cover in one trip or in one article. But since I am going to be visiting my daughter there often, I am so looking forward to exploring more of them.  

 

Debbie Glade is the Geography Awareness Editor for Wandering Educators