After Norway and Iceland, Finland is the third most sparsely populated country in Europe. For years, it hung uncomfortably close to the Soviet Union; in fact, a former foreign minister listed Finland’s three top foreign threats as “Russia, Russia, and Russia.”

The only sounds were the swish of the sledge runners, the panting of the dogs and the snapping of twigs as we hurtled through thick pine tree forests cushioned on either side by deep pillows of snow.  In front of us were six strong Husky dogs chosen for their speed and stamina, enthusiastically straining to keep up with a caravanserai of sturdy sledges.