Sevillanos love tradition. Most are dedicated to keeping their beloved city as it always has been. Nevertheless, despite the tenacity of Sevillanos in retaining their traditions, even Sevilla, like all cultures and the places that embody them, is changing. In one of those amazing contradictions that I continually discover here, it is in the celebration of two very traditional holidays that this change is most apparent: Christmas and Three Kings’ Day.

I live in the Triana neighborhood of Seville. Triana, legendary (and some would say, mythological) home of bullfighters and gypsies. There's a certain romance here, I like to think, that you won't find in other districts. It's a nice neighborhood, made even nicer by the fact that we now have (yet) another virgin.