PART I – THE SETTING

I was in Pakistan’s capital, Islamabad, and in several weeks I would be traveling to China over the 15,397-foot Khunjerab Pass, the highest paved border crossing in the world.  And so I needed to obtain a Chinese visa.  One month earlier I had been in India and considered getting the visa there.  But when I called the Chinese embassy in New Delhi, they assured me it would be a breeze to pick one up in Islamabad.  “Are you sure?” I asked the woman on the other end of the phone.  “Yes,” the cheerful voice replied.