Stepping off the incredibly hot and humid bus, I was greeted by a beautiful golden fence and vibrant red tile. The top of it read: Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. 

As I walked through the fence, I was overwhelmed by the beauty of it all: the trees, flowers, sunlight, and picturesque landscape surrounding me. I continued forward. A giant yet graceful pagoda stuck out right in the middle of the former orchard, flaunting its gorgeous, traditional architecture and stunning color. 

However, as I got closer, I quickly noticed a series of human skulls. Thousands of them were stacked from the ceiling to the floor, sending what felt like an earthquake down my spine. 

There are not enough flowers in the world to mask the reality of the ground on which I stood.

There are no words to describe the feeling of walking through the “Killing Fields” at Choeung Ek, as the dirt you walk on is ground zero for one of the most disturbing events in human history

When you walk around the well-marked path, you notice human bones and remnants of tattered clothing emerging from the ground as the guided audio tour recalls stories and events from this country’s tortured past. It is difficult to walk around the unfathomable depressions in the earth, caused by mass graves used for the victims. 

You are surrounded by an undeniable dark and unsettling aura that looms, arising from the events of the past, characterizing each step you take. 

This is the experience of the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center...and although this is a large part of Cambodia’s history, it does not define this phenomenal country. 

April 17th, 2025, marks 50 years since the Khmer Rouge began their reign of terror in Cambodia, which led to one of the most devastating periods in human history.

The reckless reorganization of Cambodian life led to the forced removal of millions of Cambodians from their homes in the cities, to the countryside, where they were coerced into slave labor. Led by the dictator Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge were ruthless, and brutally murdered anyone who was believed to oppose them, including lawyers, priests/monks, doctors, musicians, and ethnic minorities. 

Between these executions and the deaths of those who succumbed to diseases, illnesses, or starvation in the countryside, it is estimated that between 1.5-3 million Cambodians died between 1975-1979…approximately one-third of the population. 

To make matters worse, Cambodia had been the inadvertent victim of bombings from the US during the Vietnam War. Approximately 500,000 tons of bombs and landmines were dropped from 1969-1973, intended for the Vietnamese army. Landmines are still prevalent in Cambodia today, and account for about 50 deaths each year.

I spent two weeks in Cambodia, taking part in a study abroad program through Nazareth University. The Choeung Ek Genocidal Center and the Tuol Seng Genocidal Museum (S-21) were some of the first stops during our visit.

My experiences in these locations proved to be the foundation of the trip, because remnants of this brutal history are still visible, and provide an important backstory for the inner workings of Cambodia. 

One of the most incredible instances of learning about Cambodian culture on this trip was the omnipresence of music. It is important to remember how all expressions of music were eliminated (aside from Khmer Rouge propaganda songs, which were often played loudly in the killing fields to drown out the screaming and pleading from victims). 

One of my favorite experiences with music in Cambodia occurred on a dinner boat. As we traveled up the Mekong River in the center of Phnom Penh, a young man and a woman serenaded us. They were not much older than the students I was traveling with; one had a guitar, and the other one sang traditional and modern Khmer and American music. Although this performance might be one that was overlooked by passengers on the boat (many of whom were tourists), it was extremely impactful to me. This performance of music symbolized the human resilience and beauty of Cambodian culture. 

Cambodia produces beautiful music, gorgeous sights, and delicious food. However, the experiences I had with locals were the highlight of my visit to Cambodia. Everywhere we went, from hotels to restaurants, museums, or even just walking down the street, we were always greeted with smiles or a warm “Choum Reap Sur!” 

Cambodians are some of the nicest and most generous people I have ever been around in my life, despite any reasons they may have for being spiteful, vengeful, or rude (especially toward Americans). 

A fitting example of the gracious nature of Cambodians occurred in the countryside of Banteay Chhmar, where we went to admire the beautiful sunset on a lake near our homestay. There was a group of three gentlemen sitting on the dock having a picnic; they greeted us and insisted on sharing their food and drink with many of us. We sat down with them and although we didn’t know a lick of Khmer and they knew little English, we were able to converse and told small stories about our lives and where we came from.

This simple act of kindness and hospitality is a hallmark of Cambodian culture and displays the resilience of Cambodians. 

Throw out any preconceived notions from what you might have learned from history class. Even with all the terror this nation has faced half a century ago, Cambodia has grown from this traumatic history and flourished.  

This incredible nation is filled with enormous national pride and an admirable culture. Their kindness, resilience, and selflessness is remarkable to experience.  I encourage everyone reading to explore this incredible country for yourself. 

David Tuller attends Nazareth University, studying adolescent education and history with a minor in musical theatre. With aspirations to become a history teacher, he is always eager to learn more about the world! In his free time, he enjoys playing tennis, learning a new song on the guitar, or being with friends and family.

All photos courtesy and copyright David Tuller, published with permission.