In the Shadows of Dracula

Trish Clark's picture

The resorts lining the Black Sea, legendary castles, mountains, wilderness, monasteries, and medieval art are just some of the reasons to visit Romania. However, the town of Buşteni, 130 kilometres north of the capital, Bucharest, may be somewhat off the beaten tourist trail and relatively unknown to most people. The little town snuggles under the vertiginous slope of a daunting massif in the Carpathian Mountain range in an area known as Prahova, and is a popular holiday destination for Romanians. In winter, the little town swells with snowskiers and snowboarders, keen to take on the challenges offered by the daunting white-capped peaks. In summertime, the mountains green up and attract walkers, hikers, bird watchers, and mountain bikers. 

 

Buşteni panorama. Photo: Bogdan Giuşcă

Buşteni panorama. Photo: Bogdan Giuşcă

 

The pride of the town is the recently founded (around the year 2000) Mânăstirea Caraiman (Holy Cross Monastery), a large, most handsome Christian/Orthodox monastery standing on the outskirts of Buşteni. This haven of peace and spirituality is occupied by a large community of priests and is well-used by the townspeople and visited by some thousands of worshippers and tourists each year. A cross on a turret of the monastery church is illuminated each evening, beckoning pilgrims and tourists to follow the path from the town to the sanctuary of this holy place.

 

Caraiman Monastery, Romania

Caraiman Monastery, Romania

 

A cable car travels from Buşteni up to a mountain peak where there is a vast and beautiful national park. A walking track leads to The Heroes' Cross, a huge steel construction over 30 metres high which was built in 1926 to honour soldiers who died during World War I. The cross is approximately a sixty minute walk from the cable car station and was erected on the initiative of King Ferdinand of Romania. The cross was designed to be seen from great distance and is illuminated each evening, as is the cross on Caraiman.

 

Caraiman Cross. Busteni below. Photo by Amorphisman

Caraiman Cross. Busteni below. Photo by Amorphisman

 

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IEyOl-TLYyc/UhbYLbJy-FI/AAAAAAAAQTo/n-mQDGEY1AU/s512/CaraimanCross.%2520Photo%2520by%2520Papa3.jpg

CaraimanCross. Photo by Papa

 

The mountain is shared with a large population of brown bears (Romania has the largest population of brown bears in Europe) which are a protected species. A bear sanctuary in Brasov, 35 kms, provides a refuge for sick or injured bears and can be visited.

 

Only 7 kilometres south, the larger town of Sinaia supports another Christian-Orthodox monastery which dates from the 17th century. Low stone buildings surround two courtyards, each of which has a Byzantine style church in the centre. ‘Biserica Veche’ (The Old Church), dates from 1695, while the more recent ‘Biserica Mare’ (The Great Church) was built in 1846. The walls of the Great Church are lined with frescoes and the interior is decorated with important artworks and icons.  A museum of religious art and objects is open in the summer.

 

Sinaia Monastery and the Great Church. Photo by Pudelek (Marcin Szala)

Sinaia Monastery and the Great Church. Photo by Pudelek (Marcin Szala)

 

Sinaia Monastery. Photo by fusion-of-horizons

Sinaia Monastery. Photo by fusion-of-horizons

 

Unfortunately, the monasteries are not open to overnight guests, but accommodation is available in a comfortable apartment in Busteni within close walking distance of the Caraiman monastery and offers good, comfortable accommodation to those exploring the area or passing through.  Managed by local woman Carmen Calin, the apartment is rated as a 3 star holiday unit which is fully furnished and well-equipped. Two bedrooms are each fitted-out with queen size beds, and facilities include a bathroom, cosy sitting area with sofa bed, dining room, heating, DVD player, satellite TV, and WIFI. The apartment is in a great location for further exploring.

 

And as well as monasteries, there is much to see around here, including the gorgeous 19th century Peles Castle in Sinaia, former home of royalty and political leaders where furniture and precious works of art have been well preserved. It is believed that Elena Ceausescu, wife of infamous Nikolae, demanded that pillows for the castle be embroidered in silver and gold. Her husband used the castle to welcome overseas guests but because of a (temporary) problem with insects, only ever spent one night there.

 

Peles Castle. Photo by Camil72

Peles Castle. Photo by Camil72

 

Probably better known is Bran Castle (30 kms from Brasov), once a royal residence, now a museum, but on paper, courtesy of Irish author Bram Stoker, the legendary haunt of Count Dracula – and a major tourist attraction. 

 

Bran Castle. Photo by Todor Bozhinov

Bran Castle. Photo by Todor Bozhinov

 

The Urlatoarea Waterfall is a favourite with nature lovers, and the Fortress in Raznov (near Brashov) which has overlooked the town for centuries, has protected residents during wars, sieges and strife. Today it is better known for the glorious views.

 

Apartment Luxor Busteni
Address: Aleea Silva no 52,
Block E, Apt 2,
ZIP: 105500, Busteni, Prahova Valley-Brasov, Romania
bookingromania.blogspot.ro

 

 

Trish Clark is the author of the Good Night and God Bless series of guidebooks to convent and monastery accommodation in Europe. Her latest book, Guide to the Camino, St Jean to Santiago de Compostela is out now.  She is the Travel with a Spiritual Twist Editor for Wandering Educators. You can find her at www.goodnightandgodbless.com and at http://guidetothecamino.com/

 

 

 

 

All photos courtesy of Wiki Commons/Media