Ireland - a land that I love, filled with green, laughter, great food, and experiences like no other.
While I was planning a trip to Ireland in 2010, I was extremely concerned about disability access for myself. I can climb stairs, but they are painful, and I try to avoid them. I can walk up to a block, but usually use a combination of our car (park close!) and my electric wheelchair scooter to get around. That can be difficult for travel, however.
Of course, a caveat: Ireland has a very long history, and many of the buildings you will visit or stay in were built hundreds of years (or more) ago. I recognize that - and hope that you, too can find workarounds.
As I gathered a great deal of firsthand information online (thank you, Pat Preston's online forum, reddit, etc.), I’d like to share my own experiences with you, in case you, too, are searching for answers. Of course, your own abilities will determine what access you need. We also stayed mostly in County Kerry, with a few nights in County Clare. So, these are my own experiences based on where we were, and my particular needs for disability access. Of course, please do your own research as to where you are going and the accessibility offered there. We highly recommend looking at the disability access page at Ireland.com for current information.
SHANNON AIRPORT
We chose to fly into Shannon airport rather than Dublin. This allowed us to arrive a bit closer to our rental home in County Kerry. I had requested wheelchair assistance, and indeed, there was a wheelchair at the gate for me, although I had to walk the hallway after disembarking. The employee pushing it was an *excellent* introduction to Ireland – he was funny, full of great advice and quips. He patiently waited and helped with our luggage, and then helped us all the way through our rental car experience and out to the car.
Shannon Airport
RESTAURANTS
We ate out several times a week during our long stay in Ireland. We saw two accessible bathrooms – one in the Burger King in Killarney (don’t ask, we were hungry and everything else seemed closed or difficult to get into), and at D. O’Shea’s in Sneem (great seafood chowder!). The handicap bars in the bathroom are slightly different than in the US. There is a frame over the back of the toilet, and an arm comes down to the side if you need it, to get down (or up). I was amazed at the many small steps to get into restaurants (often one or two), and the long passageway to the rest rooms (which are usually located at the far back). Besides the two aforementioned restaurants, none of the restaurants or pubs had ramps to get in or accessible bathrooms. I saw two other wheelchair users at D. O’Shea’s (bravo!). There were no automatic doors at any of the restaurants. Many restaurants have outdoor seating! Win/win!
D O'Shea's, Sneem
McGanns, Doolin, Ireland
B&Bs
We stayed at two B&Bs, both highly recommended by Michele Erdvig of irelandyes.com. The first was Dubhlinn House B&B in Doolin, and the second was the Bunratty Castle Mews B&B in Bunratty. Dubhlinn House was beautiful and the owners were incredible. There were stairs, but I knew this going in. Bunratty Castle Mews B&B had one step to get in, and the rest was completely flat and accessible. Again, the owners were amazing hosts (owner Dolores is the friendliest person in Ireland!) and went out of their way to help us. Both had parking right outside the B&B, and access was easy, although not wheelchair accessible.
HOUSE RENTAL
We rented a house (Pier Cottage), near Caherdaniel, from Homeaway Holiday Rentals. On their website, you are able to search for wheelchair accessibility. We chose a house that was right on the ocean, and had one step in. There was a second floor to the home, but as there was also a bedroom on the ground floor, it was usable for me. The shower required stepping into a tub. There was laundry right in the house, and I was able to get around easily. I chose this house for location and accessibility, and it worked for our family quite well.
Kitchen in Pier Cottage self-catering
Pier Cottage
ATTRACTIONS
Cliffs of Moher Boat Tour
We aren’t big tourist trap people, but we did explore a few of Ireland's most popular attractions (for good reason!). I’ll share our experiences with each place.
Cliffs of Moher: There is handicap parking close, and there’s a paved walkway up to the cliffs.
Cliffs of Moher Boat Cruise: I had to walk across a gangplank and then down some stairs to get onto the boat. (It was worth it). Here's our review (with pics!).
Ship, Cliffs of Moher tour
Killarney National Park: There is handicap parking in all of the areas where you can park – by the jarvey carts, and near Muckross House. We took a jarvey cart and I felt that we could explore more of the park than I’d ever see. There was one large step up into the cart.
Muckross House jarvey cart
Muckross House: There were both paved and stone pathways around the house. Wheelchair access would be very difficult. To go inside on the tour, I asked about wheelchair accessibility. The woman said that it was accessible, but no wheelchair or advice was offered. To get into the house, there is a small ramp. Once within, there is a very small elevator to get up to the first floor, and another elevator to go between the floors.
Bunratty Castle & Folk Park: There are wheelchairs for rent in the admissions room of Bunratty Castle & Folk Park. The paths are very wide, mostly flat, although there are some hills. Within the folk park, you’ll have to get out of your wheelchair to enter each house and explore. In the village, there are curbs. Bunratty Castle is completely inaccessible – there are several flights of stairs to enter, and small curved stairs between floors. The medieval banquet is well worth doing, if you are able.
Bunratty Castle Stairs
Gap of Dunloe: This was one of the most accessible things we did, mostly because we took a pony trap ride through the Gap. The driver (one of the Gap Poneymen) asked able-bodied people to disembark and walk up the steepest hills, to save the horse. We took a boat ride back to Killarney. Everything else was mostly inaccessible – I had to walk a few steps to our van (Deros Tours), a few steps to the pony cart, about 3 blocks from when we disembarked to Lord Brandon’s Cottage (a way station, where we waited for our return boat), about 50 feet down to the dock, and a few steps down into the boat. Once we were back in Killarney, we had to climb a few stairs and then walk about 2 blocks to the waiting van. We loved the entire experience!
A Pony and Trap trip through the Gap of Dunloe was very accessible.
Kenmare Market: Easy. Close parking, flat surface for the market (it was right on the street). There are lots of crowds, though, so it can be a little difficult to get around.
Kenmare Market
Derrynane House: The house is about 2 blocks from the parking lot. Gravel pathway up to the house. First floor is wheelchair accessible, with a few bumps over doorways. You will not be able to see the second floor, or head down the steps and the pathway to the beach. Plenty of beautiful garden pathways, if you can get around on gravel. Here's what we saw inside!
Derrynane House
SHOPPING
Tesco Grocery Store: completely accessible, handicap parking spaces. Wide aisles, automatic doors.
Smaller stores:
Skelligs Chocolate Company
Skelligs Chocolate Company: easy flat parking lot, all on one floor.
Smaller grocery stores, shops: all of these had narrow doorways, steps, narrow/crowded/blocked aisles. It was extremely difficult to get into and around.
If you have disabilities and are planning a trip to Ireland, I’d do my research, find places to stay that work with your abilities, and then GO!
Resources on Disability Travel here at Wandering Educators
The Imperfect Traveler’s Guide to Traveling with Pain
Traveling with a Mobility Disability in Ireland and Scotland
Finding Unexpected Joy in Turkey
10 Tips for Traveling with ME/CFS and Long COVID
The Ultimate Accessible Road Trip Travel Guide
Jessie Voigts is the founder and publisher of Wandering Educators. She has a PhD in International Education, has lived and worked in Japan and London, and traveled around the world. She is constantly looking for ways to increase intercultural understanding, and is passionate about study abroad, accessible travel, and international education.
Find her online via Instagram, Facebook, or LinkedIn.
My article was originally published on Irish Fireside in 2010. The site is no longer live. All information and photos herein copyright Jessica Voigts, WanderingEducators.com