In recent months, Bangkok has been popping onto the TV for all the
wrong reasons. Manic red- and yellow-shirted street protests, burning
buses, chaos and anarchy -- what happened to all those Thai smiles we
hear so much about? Well rest assured the smiles are still there, and
while it is worth keeping an eye on what is happening in Bangkok,
overall the country remains largely safe. Keeping that in mind, here are
some pointers on how to enjoy Bangkok -- regardless of what colour shirt
you're wearing.

Sleep
Bangkok is home to world-class accommodation -- be it six star pampered
luxury or a comfortable dorm bed for under $10. If the vast range of
choices is just too confusing, shortcut the process with Travelfish's
list of the "Top 10
places to stay in Bangkok for 2009" for an eclectic list of
guesthouses and hotels.

Sightsee
More attention is being paid to old Thai architecture these days. Check
out the teak house of former prime minister MR Kukrit Pramol,
incongruously situated in the heart of the financial district's sleek
glass and steel towers; wander the grounds of Suan Pakkard Palace and
admire the teak buildings and fine antiquities on display; or visit the
bounty-filled home of Jim Thompson, the former American CIA agent who
saved Thailand's silk industry before disappearing in Malaysia's Cameron
Highlands in the 60s.

Shop
Of course, shopping for Thai silk must be on your list of things to do.
Any Thai will tell you to head straight to one of the several Jim
Thompson outlets - except for the tuk-tuk drivers who insist on taking
you for a ride to their brother's shop for free. Jim Thompson is
certainly a better bet. But there's far more to buy than a silk throw.
Check out Chatuchak Weekend Market -- a football field sized shopping
extravaganza.

Sup
You can mix a love of architecture, shopping and food if you head to
Cafe Siam, a beautifully-renovated house built by the first governor of
the Thai Railways in the 1920s located in today's financial district.
French and Thai food are served downstairs, desserts and coffee in the
lounge upstairs. Colonial throwbacks aside, it's possible to eat out
satisfactorily for years in Bangkok without ever having to go to the
same place twice - but chances are you'd want to return to some of the
best. For Thai food, there's elegant Baan Khanita or understated
Lemongrass, located across the road from the gleaming department store,
Emporium.

Sip
The arts are finally coming into their own in Bangkok, film festivals
come and go and there's a bunch of slick galleries
across the city. Check out the installation art at the hip About
Cafe and Gallery, near Hualamphong railway station, and sip a
traditional cool Thai drink while you're there.

Sanook
Sanook means fun in Thai and there's no shortage of monuments to
fun in Bangkok, where the bar and club scene gets more sophisticated by
the month. The Silom 4 area is popular among teens and the gay scene,
but New York-style Q Bar and outer-space-style Bed Supperclub show that
the Sukhumvit area can be classy too.

Soak
Bangkok's soothing spa scene has most certainly come of age. Even if
you're not staying at the gorgeous Oriental, head to their spa across
the river for some of their exceptional Thai or foreign treatments, or
further downriver try the Mandara Spa at the Marriott Royal Garden
Riverside for tropical treats at their best. If that's going to bust the
budget, wander into any shop house massage joint for a hour-long foot
rub for less than $10 -- after plying Bangkok's streets, you'll have
earned it.

Skytrains and subways
Bangkok still suffers more than its fair share of jams. Things have
changed for the better with the opening of the Skytrain (a monstrous
elevated train line) and the subway, which between them make a huge area
of Bangkok much more accessible. Neither systems quite make it to
Bangkok's old city where many of its best cultural attractions lie, but
this area is accessible by boat along the Chao Phraya, the
coffee-coloured river that divides the city in two. Make good use of all
three systems -- they're affordable and run throughout the day and
evening.

Bangkok skyline

Stuart McDonald is the SouthEast Asia Editor for Wandering Educators