How Not To Go Fast:  A Guide to California's Route 1

The key to driving California's Route 1 from Monterey to San Louis Obispo is pacing.  Or at least the lack of it.  Its 135 miles can easily be traversed in an afternoon, but if you are going to do that, head inland and use the faster Route 101. We had intentions of driving further or faster that day, but the road didn't let us. Like an airport security line on a busy travel weekend -- don't plan on getting anywhere fast.

After a visit filled with family, friends, and really good food in Northern California, my wife, two sons, and I arrived in Monterey on the Sunday before Thanksgiving for the first night of a three-day trip to my mother's house for the Thanksgiving holiday.  In either a sad commentary on our travel industry during this recession or my own lack of boy scout-like planning, we had no reservations anywhere and only dim ideas of where hotels were.  But knowing that we were going to visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium the next day, we started our search near Cannery Row.  With nearly 50% below the posted rates (plus two really tired guys in the backseat), it seemed like the perfect time to splurge on the Monterey Plaza Spa & Hotel.  We were rewarded with a nice room facing the water, the sounds of the surf blowing in through the windows, and the sight of otters sleeping and playing among the kelp beds in the morning.  After breakfast at Fresh Awakenings, it was time to introduce the boys to the Monterey Bay Aquarium...or rather have them introduce it to us.  Although I had been there before, the boys quickly mastered the layout of the aquarium and led us to where they wanted to go.

The jellyfish of Monterey Bay Aquarium

The 322,000 square foot aquarium is celebrating its 25th anniversary year in style with new exhibits and special events.  One new special exhibition (it opened in April) was "The Secret Lives of Seahorses," which displayed some of the wildest, most delicate "fish" I've ever seen.  Dr. Seuss would be proud of these marvelous creatures.  Another fun exhibit was the Outer Bay with its million-gallon tank featuring sharks, tuna, stingrays, and an alien-looking sunfish.  But the family favorites were of course the Kelp Forest fish and the otters of "Wild About Otters" exhibition.  Given the priceless sense of wonder in our boys' faces and the ease of navigating the aquarium, it is not at all surprising that it has received so many honors over its 25 year history and continues to draw nearly two million people a year.

Knowing we had a long trip ahead of us, we literally dragged our boys from the aquarium and back to the car.  Unfortunately (or really fortunately), we only made it as far as Carmel before the beach lured us back out of the car.  We were not making much progress.  We followed the aptly named "Ocean Ave" down to...well, the ocean.  The street dead-ends into a great parking area where even on a busy Sunday afternoon, we were able to find a place to park the car and dip our toes in the surf.  In fact, the boys dipped most of their feet and pant legs into the water and, once again, we had to physically drag them back to the car to continue our journey.  With lots of families, dogs, surfers, and a view ranging from Point Lobos on our left to Pebble Beach on our right, I have to admit that it was really hard for me to get back in the car as well.

After a quicker stop at Point Lobos to check out the hiking trails, we finally made some progress along the winding and often spectacular coastline to just south of Big Sur.  There, we made a short stop a quirky little place called  Restaurant Nepenthe because a friend said we had to take a look even if we didn't eat there.  The history of the place drew us in and the food looked delicious.  So...at a table just inside the door from the back deck, that quick late afternoon snack turned into leisurely early dinner.  After finishing my fresh smoked salmon plate, I realized that the fries that came with the boys' burgers were so good and ended up snitching most of those as well.  The stop was worth it just for those fries alone.

The author relaxing at Restaurant Nepenthe

With happy bellies, we wandered on towards the south, stopping only to watch a juicy orange sun melt into the sea.  Driving the lovely curves of Route 1 that hug the cliffs along the coast through the evening twilight was absolutely peaceful and beautiful.  Driving those same hair pin turns above the yawning chasm once dark fell was not, so I suggest a bit of planning so you are not caught too far from your destination when the sun goes down.

Luckily, we happened upon the perfect antidote for frazzled nerves in San Louis Obispo.  Going on their sixth year, Petit Soleil is everything a bed and breakfast should be.  Owners John and Dianne Conner have cooked up a bit of France in an southwest California stucco shell.  From the French names of the rooms to the faux fountain in the courtyard, it all worked.  However, much of that charm worked because of the friendly and welcoming atmosphere.  Dianne herself was there in the morning to chat up the early risers (my 8-year old son) and help chef breakfast. And just a word about that epic breakfast:  it began slowly with coffee and a newspaper when my youngest and I stumbled down in the early morning and moved on to cereal and fresh baked muffins when he got a little hungry.  Then, when my wife and older son joined us, the meal gained momentum as we lingered over the really, really good applesauce pancakes and a spinach cheese frittata that almost made a spinach-convert out of me.  As the boys got restless and went back to the room, we stayed and relaxed with more coffee and the newspaper.  Ah, mornings just the way they should be.

The courtyard of Petit Soleil

So, I guess I revise my earlier metaphor.  California's Route 1 is a meal to be taken in stages and savored at whatever pace feels right to you.  I hope these suggestions help.

Monterey Plaza Spa & Hotel, www.montereyplazahotel.com
Rooms start at $165

Monterey Bay Aquarium, www.montereybayaquarium.org
Tickets are $29.95 for adults, $17.95 for children.

Nepenthe Restaurant, www.nepenthebigsur.com
Serving food from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m..

Petit Soleil, www.petitsoleilslo.com
Rooms range from $159 to $299

 Feature photo: California’s rocky coastline along Route 1

R. Todd Felton is the Literary Travels Editor for Wandering Educators.

All photos courtesy and copyright R. Todd Felton