Perugia has been in the news lately for all the wrong reasons, namely the untimely death of a young university student. However it is hard to imagine anything even remotely horrible occurring in this ancient and peaceful centre of art, culture and tradition. Perugia must be one of the most well-preserved medieval hill-towns in Italy with enough historical churches, galleries, museums and medieval nooks and niches to infatuate even the most jaded of travellers. Perugia is also a university town and along with the traditional local university, the well regarded Universita' per Stranieri, founded by Mussolini, offers various courses (especially language) for foreign students. There are also a number of privately owned language schools for those wishing to learn Italian, such as the Comitato Linguistico which is open during term time.

Perugia, Italy

Perugia’s history is somewhat diverse due to the influence of various protagonists over the centuries. The Etruscans were here in the 5th and 6th centuries BC, followed by the Romans and then by the Vatican. The vestiges of all three are still very much in evidence. However, it is the ‘underground city’ which appears to be of much interest to visitors. During the 16th century the Pope at the time, Paul III erected a massive fortress called the Rocca Paolina. This came about because the Pope had introduced a ‘salt tax’ which was so unpopular that he feared for his safety. Some 200 years later when King Victor Emanuel II reclaimed the town, Peruginis finally had the chance to demolish the much loathed citadel. Raze it to the ground they did, but thankfully the ‘underground city’ still remains and visitors can wander at leisure along the ancient, arched passageways and past the remains of medieval buildings. These days ‘rooms’ in the ‘city’ are often used for art exhibitions and the area is accessed by convenient,  modern day escalators (scale mobile) which also serve as a way of getting commuters up and down Perugia’s hill. However, the innovative and driverless, 25-seater Minimetro also takes travellers and commuters up and down and runs every 2 minutes.

The main piazza in the town, the Piazza IV Novembre is located on the highest point of Perugia’s sloping hilltop. Enticing narrow laneways lined with shops and cafes spruik off the piazza as does the main thoroughfare, the Corso Vannucci, a spacious, pedestrianized cobblestone road which leads down to the Giardini Garducci from where there are birdseye views over the town.  The Fontana Maggiore, a 13th century masterpiece by father and son sculptors Nicola and Giovanni Pisano marks then the centre of the irregularly shaped square. 

Corso Vannucci, Perugia

The 14th century Gothic Cattedrale di San Lorenzo stands majestically on this piazza as it has for 700 years. Legend has it that a relic of the Virgin Mary’s wedding ring is in the church. The steps leading up to the cathedral appear to be a popular hangout for university students and gelato licking tourists. Just across the square stands the 15th century Palazzo dei Priori (Town Hall), now the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, which features works by esteemed Italian artists such as the Renaissance painter and Dominican monk Fra Angelico, and Perugino who painted the much celebrated frescoes in the Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi, near Perugia.  An assortment of other medieval buildings help shape the piazza, most accommodating fashion boutiques, delicatessens, café/bars and restaurants. However, with all the history and tradition that surrounds the town it seems incongruous that when you ask a local what Perugia is famous for they will be sure to answer ‘chocolate’. Since the early 1900’s the town’s Perugina Chocolate Factory has been producing the romantic, ‘Baci’ (kisses) chocolates – yummy, soft-centered chockies with a love note inside – a quintessential gift on Valentine’s Day! So along with the galleries and the churches a visit to the Perugina Stabilimento (chocolate factory) is almost a must. Perugia’s other claim to modern fame is the annual Umbrian Jazz Festival which the town hosts each July.

Tucked into a little corner of the Piazza IV Novembre, between a pizza restaurant and a bustling café and on the top floor of an ancient building, the Mini Resort Fontana Maggiore must have one of the best positions in Perugia.  The three comfortable and cosy apartments that make up the complex are a delight and all have been furnished with love and care. They are well-kept and spotlessly clean and named Argento, Oro, or Perla (Silver, Gold or Pearl). Apartment Perla has views over the rooftops and the surrounding countryside and Argento and Oro have views over the city.

View across the rooftops, Apartment Perla in Perugia 

Bedroom of Apartment Perla in Perugia

All three apartments have a well fitted out bathroom and a bedroom furnished with a queen size bed. All are air-conditioned, have generous heating, Wi-fi, TV, refrigerator, oven, coffee-maker, washing machine and dishwasher. Eva, the congenial and very proud owner lives nearby and is always happy to be contacted to answer questions or to pop around if she can be of assistance. I couldn’t recommend these apartments highly enough for a stopover in the city for two people. The apartments are accessed via a brand new (also cosy) lift, though a few stairs still need to be used.

Back downstairs in the piazza and just a few steps from the entrance to the apartment, an outdoor table at the Bar Centrale is well located for people-watching activities as are a generous handful of traditional restaurants serving Umbrian specialties such as Linguine Tartufata (Truffle Linguine) and Zuppa di Farro, a hearty soup made with the grains of a particular variety of wheat which is to Umbria what Ribollita (a filling bread and vegetable soup) is to Tuscany. And with its upmarket specialty shops, gelaterias and cioccolaterias, the Corso Vannucci provides the ideal backdrop for a convivial, after dinner passegiata.

Apartment Perla, Mini Resort Fontana Maggiore, Perugia

For more information, please see:

http://www.resortfontanamaggiore.com/

Trish Clark is author of Good Night and God Bless: A Guide to Convent and Monastery Accommodation in Europe, Vols I and II, both published by Hidden Spring, an imprint of Paulist Press NJ. We've interviewed Trish about Good Night and God Bless.  She writes a monthly column for Wandering Educators as the Travel with a Spiritual Twist Editor.

You can find her at http://goodnightandgodbless.com/