Having recently returned to Australia after 6 weeks in Spain, I am suffering from a bad case of Camino withdrawals. This means I am going to indulge myself once more and write about my latest favourite travel destination, and a marvellous hotel which claims to be the oldest working hotel in the world.  While my feet are now pounding the concrete footpaths of Sydney my heart is in another place, somewhere on a stony, winding (and steeply uphill, no doubt) track along the Camino de Santiago between St-Jean Pied de Port in France and Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.

The medieval town of Santiago de Compostela is the final destination for pilgrims and travellers walking the 850 km pilgrimage route from France. Those who have walked the trail and endured the physical, mental and emotional struggles of such a difficult  journey, finally reap their reward when they step in to one of Spain’s most beautiful plazas, the Plaza do Obradoiro in Santiago.  The landmark 11th century Santiago Cathedral towers over the city (and the square) from a commanding position and the parade of human traffic below seems dwarfed by comparison and possibly overwhelmed by its mere size. For first time travellers the sight of this imposing edifice is a breathtaking and humbling experience. Even so, the Cathedral is not the largest in the world and is smaller than its sister Cathedral in Seville. It is its position which gives it such an air of dominance.

Hospederia San Martin Pinaro - Santiago de Compostela 

The Plaza do Obradoiro is hemmed with ancient stone buildings, all worthy of mention, including the 12th century San Gelmirez Palace, a former episcopal residence. Opposite the cathedral stands the 18th century Rajoy Palace, now the local Town Hall and Parliament building. On one side are the two university colleges, the Colegio de San Jerónimo and Colegio de Fonseca both of which are former 15th century monasteries, founded by Alfonso III de Fonseca, son of a former Archbishop of Santiago. However, it is the Parador de los Reis Catolicos de Santiago de Compostela  which has been offering hospitality to pilgrims and travellers since it first opened its doors as a pilgrim hospital (hostel) in 1499 and has been doing so ever since. The parador is thought to be the oldest operating hotel in the world and is a tourist attraction in its own right. This elegant, stylish building retains many of the original architectural features and behind an ancient stone exterior are courtyards lined with stone corridors and arched cloisters, behind which are  large and sumptuous guestrooms. The public rooms have been sympathetically converted and restored including the original chapel. The mix of old and new has created an air of luxury and refinement – a long way from the spartan dormitories of long ago.

Santiago Town Hall 

Santiago de Compostela is now a listed UNESCO heritage site and the easiest way to find out what makes the little town tick is to get lost in the tangled web of narrow streets and laneways that wind through the Old Quarter.  Absorb the town’s history as you saunter past the silver and souvenir shops, explore medieval churches, old monasteries and the grandiose cathedral. Admire the town’s ancient buildings and their sculptured decorations or stop for a tortilla in a street café and just people watch.

Parador de los Reis Catolicos de Santiago de Compostela  

*****                                                                                

Plaza do Obradoiro, 1                                                                                                                                                15705 Santiago de Compostela, A Coruna
http://www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pscompostela.html

Other converted monastery hotels in Santiago de Compostela.

Hospedería San Martín Pinario     ***                                                                                                                  Seminario Mayor 
Plaza de la Inmaculada, 3                                                                                                                                                     15704 Santiago de Compostela                                                                                                                        Tel: +34 981 560 282

www.sanmartinpinario.eu

San Francisco Hotel Monumento   ****                                                                                                                   Campillo de San Francisco, 3                                                                                                                                             15705 Santiago de Compostela                                                                                                                                             Tel: +34 981 581 634                                                                                                               www.sanfranciscohm.com

Trish Clark is author of Good Night and God Bless: A Guide to Convent and Monastery Accommodation in Europe, Vols I and II, both published by Hidden Spring, an imprint of Paulist Press NJ. She writes a monthly column for wanderingeducators.com as the European Accommodation Editor.

You can find her at http://goodnightandgodbless.com/